Introduction
At the risk of outing myself as a total hippie, I’ll do just that. The energy on Ikaria is wild—a word that often comes up in conversations about this unique island. One local passionately argued with me amid a lively panigyri (more on these below) that winter in Ikaria is more harrowing than anywhere else in Greece. Forget about comparing Ikaria to other Greek islands; “wild Ikaria,” as I’ve dubbed her, is truly unlike anywhere else.
As someone who hosts wellness and cultural experiences in Greece (check out Yia Mas!), I find Ikaria to be the perfect place to balance rest, reset, and active vacation. With its rich culture and unique way of life, Ikaria must be experienced to be fully understood.
The Untamed Beauty of Ikaria
Ikaria has become a darling of the press thanks to its status as a “Blue Zone”—one of the few places in the world where people live significantly longer lives. The island’s natural beauty and traditional lifestyle promise a kind of fountain of youth. Despite its growing popularity, Ikaria has far less infrastructure for tourism than many other Greek islands, so planning ahead is key.
Getting to and Around Ikaria
Flights and Ferries
When booking your trip to Ikaria, consider which side of the island you’ll be staying on. For example, on my first trip, I flew in and ended up spending more time in a cab than on the plane itself. If you’re staying near Evdilos, the ferry might be a better option.
Ikaria is accessible by both ferry and airplane. If you’re ferrying from Athens, expect a 6 to 8-hour journey. It’s a bit of a trek, but that’s part of the island’s unique charm.
Use Ferryscanner to book your ferries.
Getting Around the Island
You’ll need a car or a friend who drives to explore Ikaria. The island is large, with no central town like many Cycladic islands. The magic lies in its mountain villages and remote corners. This is less a “quaint seaside island” and more of a “should we really be trusting Google Maps to this village?” kind of place. Pro tip: always make it to the village, but don’t always trust Google Maps.
Where to Stay in Ikaria
Ikaria is a large island, and locals often refer to “the other side” of the island, depending on where you’re staying. Because the island isn’t heavily catered to tourism, it’s wise to book accommodations in advance, especially during July and August.
- Gialiskari/Armenistis: I usually stay near these areas, often finding a house on Airbnb. For a more boutique option with a pool, Toxotis Villas near Armenistis is a step up.
- Therma: On the opposite side, Hotel Nefeli is a great option in Therma, known for its natural hot springs.
Where to Eat in Ikaria
Must-Visit Restaurants and Taverns
Ikaria offers a wealth of local fare and cozy tavernas. Here are some of my favorites:
- Karimalis Winery: Don’t miss a meal (and wine) here! It’s more than just dining; it’s an educational experience about Blue Zone living. Reserve ahead!
- Mary Mary (Armenistis): Amazing salads and a beautiful view.
- Taverna Deilino (Gialiskari): Overlooks the quaint Church of the Ascension and the beach.
- Kioupi (Gialiskari): Delicious local dishes in a cozy setting.
Best Beaches in Ikaria
Always ask locals for beach recommendations, and consider how much time you want to spend driving.
- Mesakti Beach: Mesakti is a large beach that houses the surf school and offers plenty of space, whether you’re renting chairs or sprawling out on your own. It’s easy to lose track of time here.
- Seychelles Beach: This Instagram-famous beach is stunning but can get crowded. Arrive early and be prepared for a hike down to the beach (and back up). The water here is unlike anything outside the Caribbean.
- Nas Beach: Nas is beautiful and has the remains of an ancient temple to Artemis. It’s a great spot for sunset, but be cautious when swimming due to strong currents.
Wellness and Activities
Surfing on Ikaria
Ikaria has a surf school located on Mesakti Beach in Gialiskari. Taking a class with one of their experienced instructors is a must. They offer daily lessons, camps, and retreats throughout the summer. Book in advance as spots fill up quickly.
Honey and Thermal Springs
Ikaria is famous for its honey, a perfect addition to your breakfast. Don’t leave without trying it! Also, visit the island’s thermal springs, which range from spa-like experiences to unorganized (free) spots. Choose whichever fits your itinerary and soak up the benefits—literally.
Panigyria Dances
Whether you’re Greek or not, dancing at a panigyri is a must. Ikaria is renowned for these festivals, which happen year-round. One of my favorites is in the village of Arethousa. Arrive around 12:30 AM and dance until dawn. Wear closed-toe shoes—you’ll get stepped on!
Monastery of Agia Theoktisti
Visit the Monastery of Agia Theoktisti, which honors a lesbian saint who sought asylum atop this mountain. The real draw is her stone-carved home—an incredible feat of architecture. The nuns here also make coffee, loukoumades, and local products. Leave a bracelet as an offering and make a prayer in the name of bravery.
Nightlife
Christos Raches Village
Unlike many islands, Ikaria’s villages are hidden away from the coastline as a historical defense against pirates. Christos Raches is a must-visit. Stores open whenever they feel like it, and the plateia fills up by night with people enjoying drinks and conversation. You’ll find some lovely bars here and lose track of time entirely.
Local Festivals and Events
Keep an eye out for posters advertising live music and parties while you’re there. These activities are hard to plan in advance, but once you’re on the island, you’ll find plenty to do.
Final Thoughts
Ikaria’s slow pace may be unbearable for some, but it’s part of the island’s charm. On my first visit, my cab driver stopped three times—from the airport to my hotel—to say hi to friends and check on his honeybees. This is normal on Ikaria, and I suggest you surrender to it. It’s a magical place, and these recommendations are just the tip of the iceberg.