Folegandros, Fole, or as I like to call it, “The Healer.” My love affair with Fole began in 2005. I came to this tiny Cycladic Island (14km big) to mend a broken heart. I had already been to many Greek islands in my life as I’m half-Greek, raised in Canada. It was this island that captured my heart so much that I now run a yoga and wellness studio here. I originally kept returning because my artistic collaborator had a house on Fole, where we made many dance films while also making works for the Folegandros festival. I had been a choreographer and performance artist my entire life, living between Berlin and Canada. As a dancer, yoga was always a part of my daily practice and to this day, it’s a huge part of my life. My thought was, “What about a wellness scene here in Fole?”
Let Folegandros Heal You
Its raw nature, alone, is healing. The heat from the rocks, minerals from the sea; the absolute beauty, aromatherapy of herbs and fig trees. The light; the light; the light.
I became a better reiki healer and better teacher here. Now, I run retreats and teach daily yoga classes at the gorgeous studio at the Anemi hotel. It is the only studio in Folegandros, and one of the very few in the Cyclades.
Three Villages
Fole is made up of 3 villages: the port (Karavostasi), Chora (the main village), Ano Meria (local, last village at the top of the mountain.) All three are so different from one another, but they are all extremely charming.
Chora is absolutely breathtaking. It is pure romance, with its squares, big trees, local tavernas, and the Kastro. It’s in this village where all the nighttime action happens, meaning dinner and a couple of bars. It’s also where the church, Panagia, is located and has the best sunset view. Also, keep in mind it’s too hot to hang out in any of the villages during the day.
Get Close to the Water
Besides the port, there are some stunning little beaches around the port. You can swim there and then eat right in front of the sea, although the best sea tavernas are in Agali and Agios Nicholaos.
Folegandros is not so easy in terms of comfort. One does have to work a bit to get to the special beaches, unless you decide to take a boat.
Most beaches are accessible by car, but there are a golden few that you can only get to by foot: Fira, Pountaki, Vinzenzo, Vorina, and Galifo. All of these are must-see and if you’re lucky, you get to have the beach to yourself because not that many people hike the island.
The beaches are mostly rock and have no shade, with no sunbeds and no cafes. This is truly what is incredible about Folegandros; the beaches are still untouched. It’s just you, the water, and the rocks. The energy that surrounds you is breathtaking.
Getting Around Folegandros
Folegandros, for me, is all about the hiking, nude swimming, yoga, sunset cocktails, and late dinners. It’s a full-on lifestyle; a community, if you will. It’s so small that even if you visit for 3 days, you will feel like you’ve been coming forever. Everyone is so friendly and personable. Here are some suggestions on how to get around:
- On Foot: Yes, you can hike in Fole; I walk everywhere. The Greeks think I’m crazy but besides keeping me in great shape, it keeps me in connection to this sacred land. There are views that you just don’t get when in a car or on a boat.
- Motor Vehicle and Local Bus: The best way to get around is to rent a scooter or a car. There is a local bus and it works very well, meaning it’s on time. However, there isn’t much choice on the schedule, so it’s best to have your own wheels– unless you don’t mind walking.
- Boat: There are also little transfer boats that take you to a couple of the beaches (which you can get to by walking, but not by car. You can always choose to walk to Agios Nicholaos and then take the 10 minute boat ride back to Agali, or the other way around.
- Boat Tours:
- SEA You Diving: A private excursions service. You can go to any of the neighboring islands for lunch and be back for dinner in Fole.
- Diapolous Travel: Offers a daily boat tour. I highly recommend a boat tour of the island, whether it’s private or public. So, if you hike and go around by boat, it gives a better sense of the entire island.
The Best of Everything
I always say it’s not easy to get to Folegandros but once here, it’s beyond worth it because this is a very peaceful island. It gives the gift of slowness, or re-connecting with yourself, through the land. In short, it is a healer. Below is a list of my favorites. Bear in mind that Fole has no franchises, and that all the tavernas and cafes are locally owned. And don’t forget to sip on some mastiha!
Hike Folegandros:
Beaches, beaches, beaches:
Where to Stay in Folegandros:
Where to Have a Sunset Cocktail:
Food:
Bars and Cafes:
Festivals:
- Chrisopigi Music Festival
Stores to Check Out:
- Folegandros T-shirts (classic Fole brand)
- Always Summer
- Petra
How to Get to Folegandros.
One can get to Fole from Athens. There is a speed boat (5 hrs from Piraeus), or you can fly into Santorini and take a 50 minute ferry.
Get in Touch With Me:
All information on my yoga classes, retreats, and healing work in Folegandros can be found on my website. Or, you can follow me on Instagram: @zojasmutny. Feel free to DM me with any questions!
