My name is Effie Panagopoulos, founder of KLEOS and reformed Mykonos addict, who in recent years has made it a point to visit new Greek islands every summer I can get there. In 2023, it was my introduction to Milos.

A Few Things About Milos

It’s as if Stanley Kubrick’s set designer built Greece on the moon. If you have one day on this island, go to Sarakiniko beach. It’s literally out of this world– the equivalent of walking on the moon in your swimsuit!

Milos is the real couples’ retreat for people who don’t want to deal with the mass tourism on Santorini. It’s also the ultimate home base for island-hopping since you can go to Folegandros, Kimolos, Polegios, and even Crete, from here on a ferry.

I did more damage here boutique shopping than in Mykonos or Paros. Maybe it was because it was at the end of my trip. Or, maybe it was because the boutiques were so damn cute, and xora/plaka (the town) is so small it’s super easy to see all of them in two visits.

When I went to Milos, my friend, Bruce Starr, co-founder of BMF Media, answered a Facebook prompt on which island I should go to and proceeded to blast me with his recommendations, which I followed diligently. He is gay, fabulous, and the ultimate jet-setter who should have his own travel show. So, below are our recommendations. Enjoy!

Getting to and around Milos  

Unpopular Opinion: Always rent a car on the islands. Unless you are a high roller and have a personal driver, taxis are usually limited/hard to get, and then so much of your trip becomes waiting for one.  Plus, driving gives you a better lay of the land and freedom to explore.  

Pro Tip:  If you’re smart, rent a car from Athens, take a ferry you can drive your car onto, and then island-hop with the car so you don’t need to rent one on every island you go to. Milos does have an airport if you prefer to fly.

Where to Stay:  

I stayed in an Airbnb, totally new and updated, right near the main port Adamas, called “Aristotle Suites.”  The woman running them is Anna, and she has apartments all over the island. This was a good home base, as it’s central.  Parking was easy, on-street.

Where to Eat:

Before you go, keep this in mind: most places don’t take reservations, so there are usually massive queues. The best time to go to avoid the wait is around 7 PM. However, it might be less busy in June and July, than in August. 

• Medusa: A must-visit in a beautiful spot in Madrakia.
• Gialos: The owners are from Thessaloniki and were by far, the most hospitable on the whole island.  Also loved the town of Pollonia. The drag here, along the water, is a great walk, and the boutique kitty corner from the restaurants is open late and dangerous!
• O Chamos: Another must-visit, according to Bruce. I can concur. The food here is fabulous, and the place is always packed!
• Astakas: Located in Klima. Go at sunset. Klima is a must-see; it’s absolutely adorable, with its multi-colored homes almost reminiscent of Italy. Your boat tour should also take you through this bay when you rent your boat for beach hopping (see where to beach notes).
• Fatses: Located in Plaka
• Okto: In Tripiti. Another great recommendation from Bruce: “It’s modern Greek, a bit fancy.” I loved it. It’s a bit bougie with outdoor seating.
• Ergini: In Tripiti
• O Palaios: From Bruce: “Breakfast and desserts in Plaka; a must-visit.”
• Mikros Apoplous
• Utopia Cafe: Bruce gives us another hit! Utopia features sunset drinks in Plaka. You must arrive by 6:00-6:30 PM because it gets quite packed, and it’s no wonder since the view is spectacular. People are literally fighting for those sunset views so don’t miss out and get there early!

Where to Beach in Milos

Kleftiko and Gerakas: Accessible only by boat. Book a private boat tour to take you around the island to beaches not accessible by car or hike (and there are many!) Tell your captain to take you to the cave in Sikia for your Instagram-worthy “I-was-here” shots. Kleftiko’s rock formations are also bananas.  

• Fyriplaka: Bruce says, “The best part is past the big rock in the water, beyond the organized sunbed area,” and I have to agree!
• Paleochori : Also from Bruce’s list. Umbrellas and sunbeds available.
• Agia Kiriaki
• Tsigrado: Bruce says it’s got “steep access and crowded…tricky to get back up.”  I didn’t get to go here, but it’s a must!
• Sarakiniko: If you only go to one beach, go here. Cliff-dive and walk on the moon.
• Alogomandra
• Thiorixia: A must-see, derelict sulfur-mine beach. It’s a rough road getting there, but it’s insanely beautiful.

Cultural Activities:

• See the original site of the Venus de Milo: Yes, the famous sculpture of Aphrodite of “Melos” that is housed at the Louvre, was originally excavated here. Yet another Greek treasure in another place, but I digress.  
• Past this site is an ancient amphitheater in impeccable condition– just to remind you that everywhere in Greece has priceless artifacts, architecture, and other remnants of a glorious civilization.
• Just past the Venus de Milo, hiking down, you will encounter The Catacombs, to add to the other-worldliness of Milos. It’s “considered to be the most important early Christian monument of worship in all of Greece.” Tours are cheap, short and sweet, and totally worth it. 

Nightlife in Milos:

Nightlife, for me, in Milos was a complete after-thought. There are 2 bars in Adamas, by the port, right next to each other that were kind of lame. Go eat and stroll in Plaka, and Pollonia, and Tripiti. Milos is not for raging. It’s for savoring, sun-drenching, and re-connecting with yourself and whomever you’re on this trip with.  

Must-Do Activities:

Visit Kimolos:

•     Take the morning boat from Pollonia (bring your car).
•     Return with the evening boat (leave your car details for the return trip).
•     Visit Prasa Beach (sun lounges, nice drinks, and wine).
•     Spend some time in the town (nice coffee shops).
•     Recommended restaurants: To Kyma (by the port) and Beba (amazing langoustine pasta).
•     Gialos in Pollonia is a must after returning (great lobster pasta).

Boat to Poliegos:

•     Depart from Pollonia. Don’t miss it if you have enough days. It’s amazing.

Boat Trip Around the Island of Milos: